Sunday, December 25, 2011

Grundfos UP15-29SU 59896775 1/12 HP Stainless Steel Circulating Pump

!±8± Grundfos UP15-29SU 59896775 1/12 HP Stainless Steel Circulating Pump

Brand : Grundfos | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 11:28:11 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Grundfos UP15-29SU (59896775) model circulator incorporates a stainless steel body design, making it suitable for a wide range of open and closed loop radiant heating and hydronic heating applications. The circulator's system connections are 1-1/4" Union.This Grundfos Circulator Pump is for open systems with Maximum liquid temperature 230 FGrundfos UP15-29SU Features Built-in motor protection for longer life Whisper-quiet operation Stainless Steel circulator body Engineered to meet the needs of residential hot water and heating systems UL/CSA listedApplications Used in both closed and open loop systems Hydronic and fan coil heating Hot water recirculation systems Solar heating Radiant heating systemsTechnical Specifications of Grundfos UP15-29SU Voltage 115V Amperage 0.42 Amps Hertz 60 Hz Phase 1 Watts 97W Max Pressure 145 psi Max Temperature 230F Min Temperature 36F Flow Range 0-20.5 GPM Head Range 0-9.7 ft Horse Power 1/6HP Body Stainless Steel Connections GU125 (1-1/4rdquo Union)Manufacturer's warranty2 years from the date of installation.DocumentationGrundfos UP Series Product Guide (pdf)Grundfos Stainless Steel UP(S) (pdf)Grundfos UP15-29SU (59896775) Technical data (pdf)

A23 Battery Buy

Monday, December 19, 2011

Grundfos 59896771 Stainless Steel Circulator Pump

click here to get 52% discount: www.amazon.com Grundfos 59896771 1/12 Horsepower Stainless Steel Circulator Pump The Grundfos UP15-29SF 1/12 HP Recirculator Pump with stainless steel pump housing. The Grundfos circulator pumps, Series UP, are specifically designed for heating systems. The pumps are also suitable for circulation of hot domestic water and for circulation of liquid in cooling and air-conditioning systems.

Promotion Technics Tonearm

Friday, December 9, 2011

Taco 007-F5-7IFC Cast Iron Cartridge Circulator Pump

!±8± Taco 007-F5-7IFC Cast Iron Cartridge Circulator Pump

Brand : Taco | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 09, 2011 06:23:59 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Cast Iron Taco 007-F5-7IFC Circulator Pump with built-in Integral Flow Check is designed to simplify piping, reduce installation costs and improve system performance. With an IFC (Integral Flow Check) inside the Taco 007 circulator, the need for a separate in-line flow check is eliminated. This feature reduces a pressure drop and increases flow performance vs. in-line flow checks.

Olympus Ls10 Recorder Discount Gpi Fuel Pumps Immediately The Dyson Ball Vacuum Save

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Lessons in Invention Development - Part 2

!±8± Lessons in Invention Development - Part 2

The thought entered my mind that perhaps price, place, and promotion weren't the only lessons to master. But I did redesign the product, too, in search of the right equation. Still, all of my attempts had failed. I had been blinded by my own dogged perseverance, causing me to fail the most crucial lesson of all. But what could that lesson be? I strained to find the answer, but it seemed time had run out. Then it was confirmed: offers for additional financial backing from my investor, representation, and free trade shows ceased, and with them my excitement and enthusiasm. I'd all but given up and others already had. What consumed me these days was how to explain to my friends, family and readers of my resume that I had lost six figures developing "pie-in-the-sky" inventions. I became seriously discouraged and as stressed as I'd ever been. I got in the habit of bringing a bath towel to bed with me so when I awoke during most nights, drenched in a cold sweat, I would have something to dry off with. Those around me sensed disaster and distanced themselves from me. Early into the invention project I ended a long-term relationship with my girlfriend who cringed at the amount of money I was spending and constantly reminded me of it. I couldn't tolerate her incessantly nagging me. She really thought I wasn't in my right mind. Even my friends lost patience with the never-ending saga. This inventing business was exacting a heavy toll, and I couldn't decide which was worse, flange installing or my invention project-"the disease or the cure."

Haunted by the memory of all the rejections during the last year and a half, I strained to find meaning at the last tradeshow as I demonstrated the last flange tool design. I was asked the same question for the nth timeby the nth tradesman-"why do they make the flanges like that?" We agreed that the flange design was questionable, but I sensed that he didn't think my tool concepts were the solution to the problem. Then I had a flash of insight, more importantly, a renewed perspective. My attention centered on the initial design options David and I had discussed at our first meeting. One design was of a flange with a hexagonal-shaped tightening surface. This was the turning point where I realized that I had veered down the wrong path by developing the flange tool of the same shape. A new flange design would offer the Reps and wholesalers a new utility that I was sure they could sell, as it would solve the installation problem for the tradesmen, and allow them to pass on the cost to their customer. My hope was rejuvenated.

I envisioned becoming successful with the first new circulator flange in as many as fifty years. Only now a shadow loomed over it, threatening it in its infancy. My investor surprised me by saying "No more, John!" She had often exclaimed, "Your inventions are all tinker toys!" To her I had also become the boy who cried wolf. I felt this time was different, just as in the tale of the boy and the wolf. Truthfully, I think she knew it, too. She was just being firm in her opposition to spend more money, merely out of principle.

Mary had considered using her 100-acre farm as collateral against a loan to my business early on. She had been ready to bet the farm-literally-but now was far from that liberal way of thinking. I felt hopeless, knowing she had already spent the money from the sale of her house where I had made the original service call roughly a year earlier. She had stayed with me for a year and 30 failed designs, I couldn't expect anything more. I could have begged her, but I had never asked her for money - she had just always known when to contribute in this way. And what if this idea failed too? Mary was 78 then, and her best friend since college had nicknamed her "CW", short for Crazy Woman, many years earlier. Exactly why I'm not certain, but it seems she took a risk in the past, and lost, with some sort of refrigeration business, and I didn't want to give her friend more fodder. Nevertheless, I persisted in explaining the significance of this latest discovery to her from as many angles as seemed relevant. I realized the simplest solutions often are the best ones. And I had to convince her that this flange was my best one. Thankfully, I found several people in the industry to corroborate my belief that I really had invented a "winner" this time around. It was then that I knew I was right. Finally, she believed the flange was a good idea and invested even more money.

I met with David once again and revisited the sketch of the tool/flange that we had made years earlier. We modified the design to include an octagon shaped nut that could be easily gripped by an ordinary wrench. The only significant difference between the flange tool and the new flange was that the tool had a hexagonal nut. It was so simple, like a Post It NoteÒ. The prior art suggested that nobody had done this with a circulator flange before, so I applied for as many design and utility patents as my lawyer and I could think of. At that time I conjured up nearly 70 ideas for a range of flange designs.

I completed development on four of the designs in a month. It took just a few phone calls, and in an instant I was back on track. Once again the president of the local supply house offered his advice: 'Call the executive vice president of marketing at a Rep firm, Emerson-Swan, Inc., in Massachusetts and ask him what he thinks about the flange.' This firm represented a Rhode Island company, Taco, Inc., a manufacturer of "hydronic" components including circulators and flanges. Taco was the market leader in the region and their products enjoyed high brand loyalty. What I soon learned would delight and amaze me.

I called the VP, and we met two days later in the waiting room of a Mercedes dealership while his car was being serviced. He seemed very impressed with the flanges I showed him, though I had the feeling there was something he wasn't telling me-he seemed too interested. These were such simple low-tech sand castings. I sort of accepted his energy, rationalizing that it was typical to see a person's enthusiasm when they saw my inventions for the first time. But I decided to do a little digging and I am glad I did. I learned that Taco was losing money on their flanges, and were factoring that loss into the sell-price of their circulators. The negative contribution to profit stemmed from increased competition, resulting in the loss of 30% of their market share for flanges. This explained the VP's immediate enthusiasm for a new flange design.

A week had passed, and he stayed true to his word that he would arrange a meeting with Taco. I met with Taco's VP of marketing and a handful of managers at their plant. As expected, their interest level was high, and negotiations began. I was now in for an education in the art of negotiating. The pursuit of success had created immense strife in my personal life, but the pursuit of "a deal" dwarfed my earlier trials.

Negotiations weren't going the way I had naively hoped, so I decided to shop the flange around, realizing that if Taco was interested in the flanges then their competitors might be, too. They were. I discovered that they all had problems with their flanges. This seemed incredulous. It wasn't long before I was on a plane to California to meet with executives from the largest pump manufacturer in the world, Grundfos-all expenses paid. But Taco sold the greatest number of this style of threaded circulator flange in the world, over a million a year. Knowing this helped me determine the total market size, and I seriously considered supplying the market with flanges myself. I made contacts with an array of other manufacturers, Reps and potential investors. I lined up production agreements in case negotiations with the two primary companies fell through. Nonetheless, I pursued them vigorously.

The last thing Taco needed was yet another company competing against them. Therefore, they had the most to lose without my design, and the most to gain with it. They were aware that if they could regain their lost market share with a patent pending flange, a "better mousetrap", then a deal with me made a lot of sense. The fact that they produced so many flanges ensured the possibility of significant royalties for my investor and me, and I was determined to pay her back. So six months later I signed a license agreement with Taco on two flange designs, but not before asking for help one last time from the supply house president, this time with negotiations; I needed a mediator. Taco and I had reached an impasse in negotiations, but once the president agreed to mediate it took just 3 weeks to settle the deal, and the first check, ,000, was signed to my company.

Since closing the deal, Taco has replaced their old standard with my designs. The "freedom Flanges," as they've named them, are on the market, and the positive response has been nothing short of a consensus. It appears that a new standard has been created. The most often asked question is "Why didn't they do this years ago?" I wish I could collect royalties on my answer to that question. Whenever I hear that question I am reminded of an inspirational statement on a poster in my insurance agent's office: "What we can easily see is only a small percentage of what is possible. Imagination is having the vision to see what is just below the surface; to picture that which is essential, but invisible to the eye." This flange solution was a glaring example of a concept so simple that no one before me considered looking for it. The torturous route that I had taken may have been less grueling and more direct if I had given equal attention to the flange option right from the beginning. Hindsight is so clear. Is it not?

Eight months following completion of the first deal, Taco and I signed a second agreement on three valve inventions. Recently we began discussions on my latest invention ideas.

Seeking to create tools based on a flange design reminds me of the 3M Company's search for a new adhesive. When their engineer pasted a sticky substance on squares of paper, to keep his place in his church hymnal, he had created what would become the Post-It NoteÒ; as simple an idea as my flange. Another notable inventor, Norm Larson, created 39 chemical formulas to inhibit rust before his 40th proved successful: "Water displacement, 40th attempt" in other words, WD-40®. I became successful with my 30th attempt, though no comparison can be made to the 100 million dollar a year success that WD-40® has become. It seems solutions to certain problems are often discovered before they are recognized as solutions, and it can require carrying an idea through a process of elimination before the successful discovery is made. My plan wasn't to start a one-product company-one-product companies are rarely successful. Although, failing with the tools and succeeding with the flange made it apparent that the simplest designs can often be the most successful. Moreover, I knew little about the market for flanges in the beginning of my journey and didn't think I could compete with Taco's established North American distribution, even with a new flange design. Thankfully, I had come full circle with my journey and was a lot wiser for having taken the trip. With attainment of inventing wisdom my hair has begun to gray, but I no longer need that bath towel.

The invention development process doesn't have to be as difficult as it was for me. I should have done a lot more market research before spending so much money on patent applications, costly patterns and prototypes, production runs, and, generally, spinning my wheels on whimsical ideas. In a perfect world a ,000 market analysis in the beginning may have helped me choose the path of profit much sooner. I would have discovered there was far greater market potential for flanges than for flange tools. I estimate I might have saved 5,000 if I had bypassed the tool approach and gone directly with the flanges and valves, my last five inventions.

Looking back at my experiences from my present perspective as president emeritus (2000) of New Hampshire Inventors Association, I've concluded that many other inventors are going through the same kind of educational process; I see mostly failure and small successes, as most inventors will have to learn by doing and aren't prepared for what it takes to succeed. Inventors need to have an awareness of the invention development process and its pitfalls. Also, they will need to possess passion and determination and, more importantly, a marketable idea. Moreover, I know the following declaration by Thomas Edison echoes in the minds of other inventors, as it has in mine: "Had I known in advance what I was in for I would not have started!" But I did start, and I finished successfully. I pushed forth with drive and creativity I didn't know I was capable of and beat the odds. 98% of inventors fail, many of them making the same predictable mistakes that I made.

It should be noted that my invention "boot camp," and my ultimate success, would not have been possible without the ongoing faith of my investor. In exchange for her risk-taking Mary will receive a ten percent return on her total investment, plus 40% of royalties from the second license agreement. Most inventors run out of money before they succeed; I would have too if not for Mary. She was not only my Angel, but my savior during my darkest hours of seemingly imminent failure. I'm very thankful that she will be repaid.

An intangible benefit to me is that I've learned more about my capabilities and limitations through this process than through any other personal challenge. In overcoming this challenge I have found the new career path I hoped to discover. I am presently in school completing a degree in business that I started in the 80s and will continue on in engineering-I'm reinvesting my royalties. Ironically, and with any luck, I've invented products for the trade that I may never need to return to and use.


Lessons in Invention Development - Part 2

Gourmet Dog Treat Coupon Traffic Hoover Dam Coupon Promotions Customize Nike Blazers

Friday, December 2, 2011

Slow Hot Water - Why Your Hot Water is Slow and a Simple Fix!

!±8± Slow Hot Water - Why Your Hot Water is Slow and a Simple Fix!

Many people find it annoying that they have to wait for their hot water to reach the fixture. If you water heater is a substantial distance from your fixture, you could have a very long wait.

There are a number of factors involved with how long it will take for the hot water to reach your sink, but there are really four main variables. The first is how long the pipe is between the heater and the fixture, the second is the diameter of the pipe, and the third is the flow rate of the fixture itself. The last variable is how much heat the cold pipes pull out of the water on the way to your fixture.

Let's begin with the piping layout. When a home is built there are no plumbing blue prints to follow, so the plumbers just connect up the piping however the individual doing the job feels like it. Whatever is easiest often is the only criteria. I've encountered tract homes that have identical floor plans yet the plumbing is connected up substantially different.

If your heater is 30 feet from the fixture as the crow flies you probably have at least 40 feet of pipe. The simplest plumbing layout would have a pipe connecting from your water heater outlet, running either down to the crawl space or up to the attic, or even under the slab if you have slab floors.

Now add the 30 feet of pipe to the fixture, and the pipe running either up to the fixture or down to the fixture. So you now have at least 40 feet of pipe. However, seldom is the pipe run diagonally, usually following along beams or through walls etc, making right angle turns here and there. The pipe could be 50 feet or longer by the time it reaches your fixture.

The amount of water flowing through the pipe and the pipe diameter determine the speed at which the water flows. The flow rate of the water is most likely determined by the flow rate of the faucet or fixture.

At only 40 psi a ½" diameter copper pipe 100 feet long would have a flow rate of over 6 gallons per minute with a velocity through the pipe of over 10 feet per second. At that rate your hot water would arrive at your sink in about 5 seconds! Large diameter pipes would have even higher flow rates.

The Federal Energy Policy Act of 1992 required all faucet and shower fixtures made the USA to have a flow rate of no more than 2.2 GPM at 60 PSI. Since the pipe itself will allow a much greater flow rate, your water velocity in the pipe will be limited by the flow rate of the fixture. The larger the pipe is, the lower the velocity will be with a fixed flow.

At 2.2 gallons per minute, the velocity of the water in ½" diameter copper pipe is about 3 feet per second. If you are at a kitchen sink it will take about 16 seconds to get the hot water, assuming the flow rate of your fixture is 2.2 gallons per minute, if the cold pipe wasn't sucking any heat out of the water.

Normally bathroom sink fixtures are restricted to 1 gallon per minute or less, and many shower heads are 1 gallon per minute. At one gallon per minute the time to travel 50 feet would be 32 seconds.

Now we come to the part where the cold pipes are pulling the heat out of the water. There are some variables involved here, with the important ones being the ambient temperature of the piping material, what the pipe is made out of, and once again, the flow rate of the water.

Colder pipes absorb more heat, heavier pipe material hold more heat and so pulls more heat from the water, and the slower the water travels, the more heat gets removed. Insulating the hot water piping helps in that it keeps the pipes from getting as cold and reduces the ongoing heat loss from the pipes to the air, resulting in a higher temperature during usage.

The time it takes to get hot water at the fixture can easily double when the heat loss to the pipes is taken into account.

If you have a tankless water heater, then you are even worse off, since the whole water heater is like a long cold pipe. In order to get full temperature hot water out of the outlet it has to pass all the way through the heater from the inlet to the outlet. Instead of starting with hot water your starting with cold water and a cold heater, which takes time to heat. The owners of tankless water heaters need to add 10 or 15 seconds to the wait.

The fastest hot water delivery would be provided by using small diameter pipe, insulating the pipe, using plastic pipe instead of metal, and keeping the length of the pipe to a minimum.

The good news is that there are several products available that help you get your hot water faster without changing your plumbing system. Not only do you get your hot water faster, you don't run any water down the drain while you wait.

There are basically two approaches to the problem. One approach is to circulate warm water through the piping so that the pipe doesn't suck heat out of the water while it's on its way. This provides a substantial improvement in delivery time. These products consist of a small pump that mounts under the sink furthest from the water heater, which is temperature controlled, turning off and on as needed to keep the water in the piping system at between 85 and 95 degrees F.

The water is circulated from the water heater through the hot water pipes to the pump, and then on into the cold water line and back to the water heater inlet.

The down side is that the cold water pipes no longer have cold water...it's more like luke-warm, which some people don't mind, and some don't care for it. Another problem is that it uses a lot more energy since the water heater has to work harder to keep the water in the pipes at above ambient temperature.

The warm-water systems will not work with tankless water heaters.

The second approach is to again mount a small pump at the sink furthest from the water heater, but instead of keeping the pipes full of warm water the pump is only activated when hot water is wanted. When activated these pumps pump the water rapidly to the fixture at higher flow rates than the fixtures could provide. When the hot water reaches the pump, it shuts off.

Since the water is flowing at a higher than normal flow rate it arrives more quickly, and since it is traveling at a higher velocity, the pipe absorbs less heat from the water. Again, no water gets run down the drain. These systems are called "demand hot water systems" since they only operate on demand, i.e. when the user pushes a button that starts the pump.

Demand type hot water systems will work with tankless water heaters as long as they produce enough flow. Some pumps do and others don't, so check with the manufacturer of the demand system to make sure it will work with your model of tankless heater.

The warm-water pumping systems are manufactured by Laing, Grundfos, RedyTemp, and others. The demand type systems are manufactured by Chilipepper Sales, Metlund, Taco, and others. Suggested retail prices range from about 0 to about 0.

Installing one of these systems not only provides the convenience of fast hot water, but can also save thousands of gallons of water per year. A typical family of four can save over 12,000 gallons of water a year.

Along with the water savings comes a reduction in green house gas emissions since energy is used to pump and treat the water in most residential water systems. And don't forget about the reduction in sewage, the same energy reduction applies to it.


Slow Hot Water - Why Your Hot Water is Slow and a Simple Fix!

Recliner Armchairs Discounted Where To Buy Schwinn 418 Elliptical Trainer Violin Glaesel Buy

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Grundfos 59896341 Brute Three Speed 1/25 Horsepower Recirculator Pump

!±8± Grundfos 59896341 Brute Three Speed 1/25 Horsepower Recirculator Pump

Brand : Grundfos | Rate : | Price : $82.00
Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 03:06:32 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump (59896341)The Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump with cast iron pump housing. SPECIFICATIONS -Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Flow range: 0 - 17.5 U.S. GPM; Head range: 0 - 19 FEET; Motors: 2 Pole, Single Phase, 115 Volt; Maximum fluid temperature: 230;F (110;C); Minimum fluid temperature: 36;F (2;C); Maximum working pressure: 145 PSI ; Connection: Flange - (2) 1/2" Diameter Bolt Holes; 2 Gaskets IncludedCONSTRUCTION - Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Stator Housing - Aluminum; Spherical Seperator - Stainless Steel; Rotor Can Complete - Stainless Steel/Tungsten Carbide; Rotor, Impeller - Stainless Steel, EPDM, PRO, PFTE, Graphite; Pump Housing - Cast Iron; Isolation valve - PPO; Stainless Steel; Terminal Box Cover, Motor Cover- Pa66/6; Light - Lexan; Cable, Cable Relief - PVC; Insulating Cover - EPP 55; Orings - EPDM; Check Valve - POMMOTOR - Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Insulation class: F; Power consumption: 25W; Voltage: 115V; Phase: 1FEATURES and BENEFITS - Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Wet rotor design.; Composite impeller.; Eliminates and prevents corrosive effects of fresh water.; Maintenance-free, low energy consumption, easy to install, quiet running.; Improved performance and efficiency.; Pre-program usage times to save power.; No additional wiring required.Adds to savings by operating pump by sensing the water temperature with optional timer (timer # 59 93 88) and aquastat.

  • 1/25 horsepower
  • Flow Range: 0- 17 GPM, Head Range: 0- 19.5-Feet
  • Motors: 2 Pole, Single Phase, 115-Volt
  • Connection: Flange - (2) 1/2-Inch Diameter Bolt Holes
  • Maintenance-free, low energy consumption, easy to install, quiet running

Samsung Fridge Water Filter Replacement Sale Off Discounted Induction Cooking Pots

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Experience the Benefits of Fast Hot Water

!±8± Experience the Benefits of Fast Hot Water

There are numerous benefits to fast hot water such as saving water, saving time, saving energy, saving money and being more environmentally responsible. It could even mean cleaner dishes from your dishwasher.

If you live in a small apartment, then fast hot water probably isn't much of a concern for you. You most likely get your hot water fast since it is a short distance from the water heater to the fixture, or your apartment has a hot water circulating system with a single large common water heater. But if you live in a rambling ranch home with the water heater on one end of the house, and the master bath on the other end, then you know you waste a whole lot of water waiting for the hot water to reach your fixture.

You can get faster hot water and get it without running any water down the drain with a hot water demand system. A hot water demand system is an inexpensive easy-to-install pump that mounts under your sink, and delivers your hot water to you fast, without running any water down the drain. Studies have indicated that a typical family of four can save up to 15,000 gallons of water per year with a demand type hot water pump.

When you want hot water, you press a button and the pump sends the hot water from your water heater to your fixture at high speed. When hot water reaches the fixture, the pump shuts off. When the pump shuts off you turn on the tap and you have instant hot water. The cooled off hot water in the hot water piping gets pumped through the cold water line back to the water heater inlet. No hot water ends up in the cold water line.

You get your hot water faster, and you don't run any water down the drain. If you are one of those people who turn on the hot water, and then do something else while you wait for the hot water, and you come back to find that there is hot water running down the drain, then you can save a ton of energy too. The energy to heat water is much more expensive than the water itself.

I have a hot water demand system in my home, and in the morning when the alarm goes off, I reach over, shut off the alarm, and hit the remote button that activates my demand pump. When I get to the shower the hot water is waiting for me. I no longer have to stand there shivering in the cold with my hand in the water for about a minute and a half. Often one pump can service more than one sink. In my home the pump is installed in the upstairs master bath, but it gets the heated water to the kitchen sink much faster too. Without the pump I have to wait 45 seconds with the water running full blast to get the hot water, but after the demand pump runs it only takes 7 seconds.

According to dishwasher manufacturers, the number one reason for dishwashers to not get dishes clean is that the water isn't hot enough to dissolve the soap completely. If you run your demand system pump when you start the dishwasher, you will make sure the dishwasher gets hot water for really clean dishes.

If you have a tankless water heater you are saving energy, and you have unlimited hot water, but you are wasting even more water than with a conventional type water heater. Tankless water heaters take longer to get you hot water since they have to heat it as well as just send it, like a tank type water heater. Since it takes longer, you run more water down the drain waiting. But don't worry, there are demand systems that work with tankless water heaters, and in fact, work with any kind of water heater including solar.

Demand systems are green products, as they save a lot of water and in many cases energy too. The pumps typically cost less than .00 per year in electricity to operate. Saving water also reduces the amount of energy needed to pump and treat it. This lowers the amount of greenhouse gas and other pollutants being released into the atmosphere. Demand pumps are manufactured by Metlund, Taco, Chilipepper Sales and others.

Check with your local water company, as some water companies are offering rebates of up to 0.00 on demand type hot water pumps.


Experience the Benefits of Fast Hot Water

Raindrip Drip Irrigation Decide Now Authentic Pigment Sweatshirts Discount New T8 Grow Lights

Monday, November 21, 2011

Grundfos 59896155 1/25 Horsepower SuperBrute Recirculator Pump

!±8± Grundfos 59896155 1/25 Horsepower SuperBrute Recirculator Pump

Brand : Grundfos | Rate : | Price : $77.99
Post Date : Nov 21, 2011 16:17:16 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • Sturdy cast iron housing
  • Flow range: 0- 15.5 US gpm, head range from 1 to 15-feet
  • 2 pole, single phase, 115-volt motors
  • Two1/2-Inch bolt holes (flanges not included)
  • Maintenance-free, low energy consumption, easy to install, quiet running

More Specification..!!

Grundfos 59896155 1/25 Horsepower SuperBrute Recirculator Pump

Great Deals Kirkland Municipal Court New Lg 47ld650

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Hydronic Zone Valves

Mark Donovan of HomeAdditionPlus.com discusses hydronic zone valves, including their purpose, and how to determine if they are working properly.

Non Toxic Mattress Buy Online Cheap Apartments Kirkland Wa Hoover Widepath For Sale

Monday, November 14, 2011

Hot Flash! Instant Hot Water Systems Explained and 5 Brands Compared

!±8± Hot Flash! Instant Hot Water Systems Explained and 5 Brands Compared

Residential hot water circulating systems provide the user with fast hot water providing a convenience for the user, and saving the water that would have been run down the drain.

Traditional circulating systems form a loop with the piping that connects from the heater outlet to the fixtures, and then back to the heater. A pump circulates the heated water through the loop. These systems provide nearly instant heated water at each fixture, but they are very expensive to operate. They waste huge amounts of energy keeping the pipe hot, and decrease the life of the heater. They are inappropriate for tankless heaters. Traditional circulating systems are made by Grundfos, Taco, Bell & Gusset, and others.

Laing makes a system suitable for retro-fitting to existing homes that don't have a dedicated return line, called the Autocirc. It is a small pump that mounts under the sink, and pumps from the hot water pipe into the cold pipe, and when itreaches 95 degrees, the pump shuts off. When the temperature drops to 85 degrees the pump turns back on and the cycle repeats. The pump can handle several fixtures if the plumbing layout is correct. This system uses a lot of energy since it keeps the plumbing full of above ambient temperature water, and the cold water line ends up with tepid water not cold. The Laing autocirc is not suitable for use with a tankless water heater.

Grundfos makes a similar circulating system for retrofitting into homes that don't have a dedicated hot return line. A pump connects to the outlet of the heater, and a thermally controlled valve is placed at each fixture in the home. The valves are connected between the hot and cold water lines. When each valve is cold water can flow from the hot line to the cold, and does so because the pump at the water heater outlet is providing pressure. When heated water reaches the valve, the valve closes. This keeps heated water near all the fixtures in the home with just one pump. However, like the Laing Autocirc, it doesn't really deliver hot water, just luke warm, and it replaces the cold water with tepid. The system is not suitable for use with a tankless heater.

Metlund and Chilipepper make "demand" hot water systems. Demand hot water systems are residential hot water circulating systems designed to work without a dedicated return, and are suitable for retrofit to existing homes. They also use the cold water piping for a return line. The demand pumps, like the Laing pump, are placed under a fixture where they connect the hot and cold lines. When the pump is activated by the user pushing a button, it pumps water out of the hot water pipe and into the cold water pipe, and shuts off when the hot water reaches the pump. Demand system pumps are more powerful than the other types of systems to move the water quickly.

The demand system has several advantages over the traditional system, and saves the same amount of water. One large advantage is the reduction in energy usage. Since the demand system only runs for a few seconds whenever someone demands hot water, it uses very little energy for pumping...typically less than .00 a year. It stops running when hot water reaches the fixture, and so it doesn't use any more heat energy than what you would normally use without a circulating system. Another advantage is the much smaller installation cost. It's easy and economical to retrofit to any house.

Demand systems have more powerful pumps than the other systems and so the Chilipepper pump and at least one of the larger Metlund pumps will work with tankless water heaters. Most of the circulating pumps won't pump enough water to activate the tankless heaters.


Hot Flash! Instant Hot Water Systems Explained and 5 Brands Compared

Casio Ex-s770 Cheap

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Instant Hot Water - Cheap and Easy

!±8± Instant Hot Water - Cheap and Easy

Instant hot water has a lot to be said for it. Not having to stand around waiting is one. Saving tons of water is another. Instant hot water can save you time water and energy, and along with those savings are other less tangible benefits. Reduced green house gasses are released into the atmosphere when you use less water since it requires energy to pump and process water before it gets to your home, and then again as sewage. If you have a septic system it can extend the life of your system. If you are on a well, your pump won't have to run as much.

There are a variety of systems on the market today that are designed to get you faster hot water. There are different views on just what "instant hot water" is. Some people say that you have to be able to get hot water within a second or two after turning on a tap. With most of these systems there is definitely a waiting period, which usually occurs before you turn on the tap, so not all people view all of these systems as producing "instant hot water".

For our purposes we shall define "instant hot water" as that which arrives within a few seconds of turning on the tap even if you had to wait before turning on the tap.

One way to have instant hot water is to circulate the water in a big loop from the outlet of the water heater, past each fixture, and on back to the inlet of the water heater. In my opinion this is the only way to really have "instant" heated water. You walk up to the tap and turn it on, and within a second or two it's there.

At first this sounds like a great idea, but after closer scrutiny it becomes obvious that this system is not so great after all. It is an energy hog! What you end up with is a giant heat radiating system that keeps the water heater working harder and more often to keep this big piping radiator hot. Even if you insulate the heck out of the pipes, the surface area to volume ratio insures that you will consume a huge amount of energy. Energy to heat water is much more expensive than the water that is being heated.

These continuously circulating systems also suffer from breakdowns due to the fact that heated water tends to form sediment even while being circulated. This sediment gets deposited on the surfaces of the pump parts and pipes forming clogging deposits which cause breakdowns.

Continuous circulating systems won't work with tankless water heaters. This is unfortunate, since tankless water heaters take longer to get the heated water than normal plumbing systems. More wasted water is the result.

Grundfos and Taco are two manufacturers of continuous circulating pumps and systems.

An alternative to the continuous circulating systems are the temperature controlled circulating systems that use the cold water piping as the return line back to the water heater. Like the previously discussed system, the hot water gets circulated in a big loop from the water heater, past the fixtures, and back to the water heater. The pump is usually located at the fixture furthest from the water heater, and the inlet connects to the hot pipe and the outlet connects to the cold water pipe With some systems the pump can be located at the heater, and just a valve at the fixture.

Since you obviously don't want your cold water piping full of heated water, the pump has a temperature sensing circuit, and the circuit shuts the pump off when the water gets up to about 95 degrees at the pump. The pump turns back on when the water temperature cools down to about 85 degrees. This means that when you turn on the tap you don't have to wait as long for the hot water to reach you since the pipes aren't as cold and won't suck the heat out as much as cold pipes would and so you get hot water more quickly. It certainly isn't instant though.

These "luke warm" systems as I call them also waste a whole lot of energy since they keep the pipes full of partially heated water. They don't use as much energy as the standard circulating systems, but they still use much more energy than a normal plumbing system uses.

Again, as with the previous types of systems the luke warm systems will not work with a tankless water heater. They pump water much too slowly to activate the tankless water heater's flow switch, and so they would just circulate cold water around and around.

Manufacturer's of the luke warm systems include RedyTemp, Laing, Grundfos and Watts.

The good news is there is a type of system that gets you fast hot water, doesn't run water down the drain, doesn't use more energy, and even works with tankless water heaters. In addition it is inexpensive and easy to install. The type of system I am talking about is a "demand system". When you "demand" heated water, by pressing a button, the pump comes on and pumps the heated water to your fixture rapidly. As with the luke warm systems, the pump is located at the furthest fixture from the heater, and connects to the hot and cold lines.

Instead of being temperature controlled though, the pump only turns on when you turn it on. It has a temperature sensor built in, and when hot water reaches the fixture the pumps shuts off. At that point you have instant hot water when you turn on the tap. Since the heated water was not circulated, you did not use any more heat energy than if you had a normal plumbing system. Since the pump only runs for a few seconds each time, it only uses a dollar or two per year in electricity costs. If you have a system with a powerful pump like the Chilipepper CP6000 pump, you can get your water much faster than normal. The CP6000 pumps up to 3 gallons per minute, and many fixtures limit flow rates to less than one gallon per minute. So you can get your heated water up to three times as fast. And what you get is hot water, not luke warm water.

The demand type systems do not seem to have any drawbacks. They get you your hot water faster, saving you time. They don't use more energy than a standard system. They are inexpensive, or at least some of them are. And some of them work with tankless water heaters as well. As long as the pump is strong enough to turn on the heater, it will work.

The Chilipepper pump has the strongest pump on the market and will turn on any tankless water heater. Metlund makes several models, and not all will work with a tankless water heater so if you have a tankless water heater check with the manufacturer to make sure it will work with your model of heater.

Demand systems are typically inexpensive, the least expensive being the Chilipepper at about 0.00, and Metlund with several models under 0.00. Taco also manufactures a demand system very similar to the Metlund D'mand system. Often you can install them without even turning off the hot water to the house, just turn off the angle stops under the sink where you are installing it. You will need a 110 volt outlet to plug the pump into.

If you decide you are interested in a demand type system check with you local water company, as several water companies around the country offer their customers rebates of up to 0.00 for the installation of such a system to conserve water. So be green, help out the environment, and stop waiting for hot water.


Instant Hot Water - Cheap and Easy

Ti 89 Calculator Instructions Discount Buying Round Bed Ikea Waverly Pet Rescue Free Shipping

Friday, November 4, 2011

What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 2

!±8± What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 2

Here are the proper steps to designing an efficient and cost effective heating system:

1. Through in depth discussions with the GC and building owner, determine exactly what the building owner expects from the new heating system - what type of system will it be? There are numerous options for system types and the type of fuel it will utilize. What level of efficiency will the system be capable of? What level of equipment quality is expected? How many heating zones are desired? How will potable water will be heated - through the boiler and indirect-fired water heater, or a separate heating source like a direct-fired water heater - gas, electric, oil, or solar? In the case of an "indirect" water heater, I will be sure to add the requisite BTUs per hour for the domestic hot water as needed. Basically, all relevant information will need to be conveyed with person-to-person discussions, and the HVAC subcontractor should be able to drive the discussions to the point that all questions will be satisfactorily be answered so he can proceed to the next step.

2. The HVAC sub needs to obtain a complete set of working construction drawings that include all floor plans, elevations drawings, window, door and insulation schedules, and geographical orientation.

3. The HVAC designer will then interpret the drawings and harvest all of the necessary data from it to be used in the heat loss calculation software. The software will tell him how many BTUs/hour the building will require on the coldest day and will break the total down by individual room "loads".

4. The designer will then select the proper equipment based on fuel type, "net" heating output capacity (in BTUs/hour) and how the heating appliance will be vented - through a chimney, sidewall-vented or power-vented out the side of the building or direct-vented through the roof. He will also account for quality and efficiency rating.

5. Then the heat distribution aspect of the design will be worked through. For FHW, he will determine pipe sizing and type, circulator (the 'pump' that moves hot water from the boiler to the terminal units) performance characteristics, flow control devices and terminal unit type(s) and sizes.

6. The designer will then choose the control systems based on number of zones, energy-savings and safety and code requirements.

7. The fuel storage type and capacity will be selected.

8. A total cost estimate will be generated and a proposal listing all of the major components will be drafted and submitted.

This is a basic list of steps. In reality, there are so many details to creating a competent design and estimate that delineating all of them goes beyond the scope of this article. The most important point is that the heat loss calculation must be competently performed before any other design step can be taken. The other important thing is that the proper equipment be selected that answers to the heat loss calculation. If the equipment heating capacity is guessed at, then the system will most likely be over-sized...for the life of the system. Next is as important - the efficiency of the equipment is crucial to future fuel consumption and a true professional HVAC system designer will promote the highest efficiency available. Spending a few hundred dollars initially is always more advantageous financially than forever burning more fuel due to poor efficiency. Consider higher efficiency equipment as an investment in future fuel savings.

If any of the steps outlined above are skipped, then greater operating and service costs will result. Some HVAC subs do not design the systems they install, their equipment/parts suppliers do the calculations for him and he automatically believes they did the calculations right. Often a lot of rounding up gets done in the HVAC design world, as nobody wants to be left holding the bag if too small a system is installed, then doesn't sufficiently heat the house on the coldest days of the year. And that rounding can account for 25% of the system capacity - it will be too over-sized and cost the building owner more money to heat.

I can't express enough how many HVAC systems are incorrectly sized and designed. I see them every week I am out in the field. It is more normal for systems to be designed incorrectly than to be designed correctly. Yes, I repeat: most heating systems are designed incorrectly and burn too much fuel!

While plumbers and HVAC companies are often incompetently designing and installing heating systems, fuel companies are more often intentionally designing systems to burn the greatest amount of fuel their systems can get away with. Again, not all fuel companies are doing this, only the unethical ones are. Still, there is a great amount of ignorance in heating system design. HVAC sales engineers (like myself - see my resume at my website) are few and far between. Companies will pay great money to acquire a competent sales engineer. Conversely, HVAC companies aren't looking for them because they know it is a futile search.

Residential building owners are the most taken advantage of by companies through deliberate and unintended shoddy heating system design, installation and service. This is true because homeowners do not have the desire to learn about their heating system, nor the time to get over the learning curve. Therefore, they do not know the right questions to ask of a GC, HVAC or fuel company. They often are meticulous in scheduling the annual cleaning/inspection of their heating system, yet lack the important knowledge to determine if the cleaning was done right. They will never know if the system was designed and installed right and if the technicians who have worked on it through the years knew what they were doing. Any incompetence along the lifespan of the system, from design to the last service call before the system is replaced, will cost the homeowner more money. Mostly, homeowners are oblivious to the extent they are being ripped off!

Here's a rip-off scenario of a different kind. People think they have to spend ,000 to save a grand a year in fuel cost! They are lead to believe this routinely by energy auditing "professionals". In a blog post to come I will explain how "energy auditing" firms are duping their clients into believing they need some kind of sophisticated analysis to determine how their client can save money on fuel, and that they need high tech HVAC equipment to save money on energy costs. This is a huge scam, considering the energy auditor will charge tens of thousands of dollars to evaluate their building before any energy efficiency measures are carried out. They fly under the flag of the monetary incentives for the building owner provided for in the The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 - The "Economic Stimulus Package".

Recently, I was contacted (through a referring party who worked for the New Hampshire Public Utilities Commission) by a woman who had been a policymaker with the same state agency for 20 years. She inquired about converting 3 heating systems in 2 apartment buildings to higher efficiency gas-fired boilers, so she could do her part in reducing her carbon footprint and qualify for benefits under the U.S. "Stimulus Package". I told her the ramifications of changing her chimney-vented boilers to direct-vented types would be a costly endeavor, approaching ,000 apiece. I also told her that I could make her cast iron mid-efficiency FHW boilers burn as much as 15-30% less gas. Of course, she was all ears. She hired me for a couple of grand to install temperature modulation controls on the 3 boilers and make a few other modifications. The end result means she will spend about the same on fuel as the new technology high efficiency boilers would require, and she got these modifications for about ,000 less!

Commercial building owners are generally more required by job description to know important things like, the benefits of heat loss calculations, proper equipment output capacity and the steps required of technicians doing maintenance. This is not to say that commercial building owners are not somewhat in the dark, too. Not all commercial buildings are managed by people who are wise to HVAC technologies and the tricks-of-the-trade, shall we say. Nevertheless, commercial systems naturally consume greater amounts of fuel - the space to be heated is bigger than homes - and when they burn inefficiently the wasted fuel is also greater than that wasted in residential applications. Therefore, it is more imperative for commercial building owners to make sure they are getting the correct answers from their HVAC professionals.

Like the fox that guards the hen house, your fuel company is not unlike the fox. The more fuel your heating system uses, the more money you pay your fuel supplier. It's logical then to believe that the greatest amount of fuel they can sell you is what they endeavor to sell you. Like the fox scheming to eat the hens, fuel companies can and do design and service heating systems in ways that demand the burner burns more fuel than is otherwise necessary to heat your building. All they have to do is skip the heat loss calculation and pick an inefficient, oversized American-made boiler and sell it to you. You trust them and are confident that the new boiler will heat your house reliably. You hope you will save money on fuel, but at least it won't break down soon. Unfortunately, the fuel company salesman didn't tell you the new boiler is a single-pass flue design and has a gross stack temperature of 450 degrees. He also didn't tell you that you could have bought a European boiler with a triple-pass heat exchanger and resulting 300 degree gross stack temperature. He also didn't offer to sell you a temperature modulation control and an indirect-fired water heater. Instead, you got a boiler with a "tankless" coil (for domestic hot water) that requires the boiler maintain constant temperature 24/7 all year long. All the while, heat constantly escapes up the chimney into the atmosphere.

What if you are considering the purchase of a building? You walk-through the building and make note of as much detail as you are able to in a limited number of walk-throughs. You calculate the cost of things like paint, landscaping, obvious mechanical systems repairs and the like, but you most likely know very little about heating technology, but do you know how fuel efficient, or inefficient the heating system is? You can ask what the past fuel costs have been, but without knowing what the infiltration rate of the building is and how many BTUs are required to heat the building on the coldest day of the year, then you will not be able to make any educated conclusions about the heating system's efficiency and effectiveness. Therefore, you will not be able to accurately predict the cost to heat the building. If you buy the building you will find out in the first year what the heating system consumes in fuel, assuming the weather is typical winter weather.

Here are the mechanical reasons behind high fuel and electricity cost:
No one did a heat loss calculation before the heating system was installed and they guessed at the BTU capacity of the heating appliance (boiler or furnace) and/or the radiation (baseboard or duct and diffusers sizes) capacity was undersized. A boiler/furnace that is too big, as discussed, will short cycle and consume too much fuel like city driving. A boiler or furnace that is too small will not adequately heat the building, the conditioned space will not reach the desired temperature so the thermostat will never be satisfied and the boiler/furnace will never shut off - and burn too much fuel. The boiler or furnace was installed incorrectly. The supply and return piping was the wrong diameter and/or the ducts and/or diffusers were the incorrect size. The number of installed zones (each zone has a thermostat, so count tally them up and that's the number of zones in your system) was either too many or, less likely to cause excessive fuel consumption, too few. The installed zone(s) had too much radiation capacity connected to it/them. Too much baseboard radiation on a forced hot water zone will cause a heat imbalance in the building and hot and cold spots will ensue. The solution is to split the zone into more "loops". Ducts or pipes were not insulated in unconditioned spaces. You really don't want to inadvertently heat basements, attics, crawl spaces and the like, therefore, the ducts or pipes need to be insulated. Ducts also need to be sealed to prevent air escape. The installer did not set up the combustion process to achieve the carbon dioxide, oxygen, smoke, gross stack temperature and draft levels that the manufacturer intended. Too high a stack temperature (too much negative draft in the smoke pipe) means too much heat is escaping up the chimney. Too low a CO2 percentage of flue gas means the fuel isn't being completely combusted (at least as much as is possible with the equipment). Too much smoke in a smoke test means the boiler or furnace will "soot up" quickly. An 1/8" of soot is equivalent to an inch of fiberglass insulation. You don't want insulation on the heat exchanger, otherwise the heat generated by combustion will not transfer into the heating medium - air or water - and the heat will go up the chimney in excessive stack temperature. In the case of oil burners and power gas burners, if the burner output capacity in BTUs was not matched to the boiler/furnace "input capacity" then the burner will either short cycle (burner output too great), or the burner will never shut off (burner output too little). The installing contractor selected a boiler with a temperature limit control that maintains temperature in the boiler that is too great for the application. The installer incorrectly set the temperature limits in the aquastat (boiler) or fan and limit control (furnace). Too much fuel and electricity will be consumed as a result. The wrong flow capacity circulators were selected and installed in the forced hot water system. Not enough heat is transferred to the space (the burner will short cycle) or electric consumption will be too great. The burner - gas or oil - metering device (orifices with gas; nozzle with oil) was incorrectly selected, which usually means the wrong boiler/furnace or burner was incorrectly selected and installed. Almost always, the manufacturer of the heating equipment charges their engineering department with the task of Research and Development to determine what nozzle of orifice(s) are correct and set up the burners to include the correct ones with their burner/boiler or furnace. Nevertheless, incompetence can get in the way and that is often messed up in the field. The installer did not set the correct metering rate for the requisite gas input rate for the burner. This means that he did not adjust the "manifold pressure" for the gas after the gas valve on the gas burner. With today's high efficiency, multi-stage firing burners, this is a very technical set up feature that absolutely must be done. In certain cases, a gas explosion can result if the manifold pressure in each firing stage is not set correctly. This must always be done in the field after complete system installation. The installer did not follow the manufacturer's installation and/or service instructions to the letter. Too much fuel or electricity will be consumed, too much or too little heat will be generated, and/or a safety issue will result. Water through pipes and/or air through ducts was not properly balanced, causing heating imbalance in the conditioned space and excessive electrical consumption by circulators and blowers.The bottom line is if the designer did not properly design the system, then:
Too much electricity and/or fuel will be consumed. The system will most likely never work correctly. The system can become a danger to people and property. Consequential damage costs can result. Civil litigation costs can be expected. The installed cost of the system will not be accurately represented. The environment will suffer. The building owner will pay with his money, time and frustration level.The bottom line is if the installer did not properly install the system, then:
Too much electricity and/or fuel will be consumed. The system will most likely never work correctly. The system can become a danger to people and property. Consequential damage costs can result. Civil litigation costs can be expected. The installed cost of the system will not be accurately represented. The environment will suffer. The building owner will pay with his money, time and frustration level.The bottom line is if the service technician did not properly service the system, then:
Too much electricity and/or fuel will be consumed. The system will not work correctly until a technician who knows what he is doing fixes the problem(s). The system can become a danger to people and property. Consequential damage costs can result. Civil litigation costs can be expected. The service cost of the system will not be accurately represented and will always end up costing more. The environment will suffer. The building owner will pay with his money, time and frustration level.The bottom, bottom line is any of the above bottom lines can be combined and the result will be a veritable nightmare for the building owner. I see the outcome on a regular basis and this is why people hire me - to fix these screw-ups. At least 90% of my work is generated from the screw-ups of other HVAC designers, installers and service technicians. This is not to say that we don't all make mistakes. We do, I do. Some who make mistakes offer no solutions or apologies for their mistakes. I do.

So what can you do when you suspect that someone has made mistakes with the design, installation or service of your heating system, or any HVACR system in general? Contact me. This is why I offer design, installation, service, consulting and expert witness services in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, Ventilation, Refrigeration, Humidity Control, Exhaust and other aspects of the "HVAC" realm. There's a huge market for it.

Here's what you need to do to prevent the mistakes from being made in the first place:
Research your prospective HVAC installing contractor's background - ask for references, his training history, employment history, his website, his specialization(s), if any. Ask your installing contractor, or general contractor, who is responsible for the design of your system. If they say their parts supplier, tell them you are not interested. You must hire an installer who does his own designs. That way, if things go wrong he is solely responsible for the system shortcomings. In the worst case scenario, you do not want to have to sue multiple companies/individuals, or your legal bills will preclude your success. Make sure you get a copy of the heat loss calculations...in their entirety! If they can't offer you a copy (this means they have not done the calculations in Wrightsoft, Elite, or an equipment manufacturer's proprietary software), then fire them before you hire them! Ask your installing contractor to see his portfolio of past installations and the names and contact information of his customers with those systems. If he can't provide that information, then move on to the next installer who can. Ensure that you speak directly with the installing contractor. If your general contractor/builder does not allow this...fire him before you hire him! When you speak directly with the prospective installing HVAC contractor, make sure you discuss the type of fuel you intend to burn; the type of venting method you will be using (masonry chimney, high temperature metal chimney; sidewall/direct-vent, or "ventless") and the efficiency range (mid-efficiency or high-efficiency) of the equipment that you desire. Also, do some research on heating system types, product types, brand names, furnace and boiler material construction types (cast iron, steel or cast aluminum) and the approximate costs for each versus what your return on investment (ROI) will be for each. Pick your installing contractor's brain for his reasons for selecting the types and brands of the equipment and materials who chooses to install. If his reasons don't sound quite right, then there is a red flag. Get other installer's opinions and recommendations and go with your gut feeling. Tell your general contractor/builder that you want several alternate HVAC installer quotes...then go with your gut feeling on which one to select for your project. Educate yourself as much as you can with all that you can stand to know about heating systems. "An Educated Consumer is Our Best Customer!" You've heard that slogan before. Be that educated consumer. Never buy a system because it was the low bid! You virtually always get what you pay for. "Pay Now or Pay Later!" You've heard those cliché's as well. Let me design your heating/HVACR system(s). Then you will know you covered all the important bases. I will provide you with a heat loss analysis, Bill Of Materials (estimate for every single part that your system(s) will be comprised of, down to the last screw and wire nut), Proposal with all the essential information and legalese, in an understandable presentation, and any and all product specifications that comprise your system. If you don't hire me for your designs, estimates or proposals, then let me review those of your installing contractor so I can pinpoint any shortcomings. If you live in my area of business, then consider me for the system installation and service. If you hire someone else, then let me inspect his work...before you make the final payment to him! That way you will have leverage if he did something that is wrong and the system won't perform as intended. He will come back to fix a problem if he knows he will get paid when the problem is fixed. Make sure that the installed system is inspected by the local Municipal mechanical inspector and/or the Fire Chief. But don't rely too heavily on the "rubber stamp of approval" from the inspector, as a good majority of inspectors have no idea what they are even looking at. Check with your state's Public Utilities Commission to see if they prescribe and enforce energy efficiency measures and codes. You will be surprised how many installers do not know of or follow these prescribed codes and measures, or if they even exist.I could tell you volumes more about HVAC systems efficiency and safety, but that will have to be seen in past and future Blog postings. In the meantime, good luck and be educated!


What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 2

Good Bargain Assurance Diapers Authentic Pigment Sweatshirts Discount Promotional Rice Krispies Cakes


Twitter Facebook Flickr RSS



Fran�ais Deutsch Italiano Portugu�s
Espa�ol ??? ??? ?????







Sponsor Links