Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Grundfos 59896341 Brute Three Speed 1/25 Horsepower Recirculator Pump

!±8± Grundfos 59896341 Brute Three Speed 1/25 Horsepower Recirculator Pump

Brand : Grundfos | Rate : | Price : $82.00
Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 03:06:32 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump (59896341)The Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump with cast iron pump housing. SPECIFICATIONS -Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Flow range: 0 - 17.5 U.S. GPM; Head range: 0 - 19 FEET; Motors: 2 Pole, Single Phase, 115 Volt; Maximum fluid temperature: 230;F (110;C); Minimum fluid temperature: 36;F (2;C); Maximum working pressure: 145 PSI ; Connection: Flange - (2) 1/2" Diameter Bolt Holes; 2 Gaskets IncludedCONSTRUCTION - Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Stator Housing - Aluminum; Spherical Seperator - Stainless Steel; Rotor Can Complete - Stainless Steel/Tungsten Carbide; Rotor, Impeller - Stainless Steel, EPDM, PRO, PFTE, Graphite; Pump Housing - Cast Iron; Isolation valve - PPO; Stainless Steel; Terminal Box Cover, Motor Cover- Pa66/6; Light - Lexan; Cable, Cable Relief - PVC; Insulating Cover - EPP 55; Orings - EPDM; Check Valve - POMMOTOR - Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Insulation class: F; Power consumption: 25W; Voltage: 115V; Phase: 1FEATURES and BENEFITS - Grundfos UPS15-58FC Three Speed 1/25 HP Recirculator Pump:; Wet rotor design.; Composite impeller.; Eliminates and prevents corrosive effects of fresh water.; Maintenance-free, low energy consumption, easy to install, quiet running.; Improved performance and efficiency.; Pre-program usage times to save power.; No additional wiring required.Adds to savings by operating pump by sensing the water temperature with optional timer (timer # 59 93 88) and aquastat.

  • 1/25 horsepower
  • Flow Range: 0- 17 GPM, Head Range: 0- 19.5-Feet
  • Motors: 2 Pole, Single Phase, 115-Volt
  • Connection: Flange - (2) 1/2-Inch Diameter Bolt Holes
  • Maintenance-free, low energy consumption, easy to install, quiet running

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Experience the Benefits of Fast Hot Water

!±8± Experience the Benefits of Fast Hot Water

There are numerous benefits to fast hot water such as saving water, saving time, saving energy, saving money and being more environmentally responsible. It could even mean cleaner dishes from your dishwasher.

If you live in a small apartment, then fast hot water probably isn't much of a concern for you. You most likely get your hot water fast since it is a short distance from the water heater to the fixture, or your apartment has a hot water circulating system with a single large common water heater. But if you live in a rambling ranch home with the water heater on one end of the house, and the master bath on the other end, then you know you waste a whole lot of water waiting for the hot water to reach your fixture.

You can get faster hot water and get it without running any water down the drain with a hot water demand system. A hot water demand system is an inexpensive easy-to-install pump that mounts under your sink, and delivers your hot water to you fast, without running any water down the drain. Studies have indicated that a typical family of four can save up to 15,000 gallons of water per year with a demand type hot water pump.

When you want hot water, you press a button and the pump sends the hot water from your water heater to your fixture at high speed. When hot water reaches the fixture, the pump shuts off. When the pump shuts off you turn on the tap and you have instant hot water. The cooled off hot water in the hot water piping gets pumped through the cold water line back to the water heater inlet. No hot water ends up in the cold water line.

You get your hot water faster, and you don't run any water down the drain. If you are one of those people who turn on the hot water, and then do something else while you wait for the hot water, and you come back to find that there is hot water running down the drain, then you can save a ton of energy too. The energy to heat water is much more expensive than the water itself.

I have a hot water demand system in my home, and in the morning when the alarm goes off, I reach over, shut off the alarm, and hit the remote button that activates my demand pump. When I get to the shower the hot water is waiting for me. I no longer have to stand there shivering in the cold with my hand in the water for about a minute and a half. Often one pump can service more than one sink. In my home the pump is installed in the upstairs master bath, but it gets the heated water to the kitchen sink much faster too. Without the pump I have to wait 45 seconds with the water running full blast to get the hot water, but after the demand pump runs it only takes 7 seconds.

According to dishwasher manufacturers, the number one reason for dishwashers to not get dishes clean is that the water isn't hot enough to dissolve the soap completely. If you run your demand system pump when you start the dishwasher, you will make sure the dishwasher gets hot water for really clean dishes.

If you have a tankless water heater you are saving energy, and you have unlimited hot water, but you are wasting even more water than with a conventional type water heater. Tankless water heaters take longer to get you hot water since they have to heat it as well as just send it, like a tank type water heater. Since it takes longer, you run more water down the drain waiting. But don't worry, there are demand systems that work with tankless water heaters, and in fact, work with any kind of water heater including solar.

Demand systems are green products, as they save a lot of water and in many cases energy too. The pumps typically cost less than .00 per year in electricity to operate. Saving water also reduces the amount of energy needed to pump and treat it. This lowers the amount of greenhouse gas and other pollutants being released into the atmosphere. Demand pumps are manufactured by Metlund, Taco, Chilipepper Sales and others.

Check with your local water company, as some water companies are offering rebates of up to 0.00 on demand type hot water pumps.


Experience the Benefits of Fast Hot Water

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Monday, November 21, 2011

Grundfos 59896155 1/25 Horsepower SuperBrute Recirculator Pump

!±8± Grundfos 59896155 1/25 Horsepower SuperBrute Recirculator Pump

Brand : Grundfos | Rate : | Price : $77.99
Post Date : Nov 21, 2011 16:17:16 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • Sturdy cast iron housing
  • Flow range: 0- 15.5 US gpm, head range from 1 to 15-feet
  • 2 pole, single phase, 115-volt motors
  • Two1/2-Inch bolt holes (flanges not included)
  • Maintenance-free, low energy consumption, easy to install, quiet running

More Specification..!!

Grundfos 59896155 1/25 Horsepower SuperBrute Recirculator Pump

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Hydronic Zone Valves

Mark Donovan of HomeAdditionPlus.com discusses hydronic zone valves, including their purpose, and how to determine if they are working properly.

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Monday, November 14, 2011

Hot Flash! Instant Hot Water Systems Explained and 5 Brands Compared

!±8± Hot Flash! Instant Hot Water Systems Explained and 5 Brands Compared

Residential hot water circulating systems provide the user with fast hot water providing a convenience for the user, and saving the water that would have been run down the drain.

Traditional circulating systems form a loop with the piping that connects from the heater outlet to the fixtures, and then back to the heater. A pump circulates the heated water through the loop. These systems provide nearly instant heated water at each fixture, but they are very expensive to operate. They waste huge amounts of energy keeping the pipe hot, and decrease the life of the heater. They are inappropriate for tankless heaters. Traditional circulating systems are made by Grundfos, Taco, Bell & Gusset, and others.

Laing makes a system suitable for retro-fitting to existing homes that don't have a dedicated return line, called the Autocirc. It is a small pump that mounts under the sink, and pumps from the hot water pipe into the cold pipe, and when itreaches 95 degrees, the pump shuts off. When the temperature drops to 85 degrees the pump turns back on and the cycle repeats. The pump can handle several fixtures if the plumbing layout is correct. This system uses a lot of energy since it keeps the plumbing full of above ambient temperature water, and the cold water line ends up with tepid water not cold. The Laing autocirc is not suitable for use with a tankless water heater.

Grundfos makes a similar circulating system for retrofitting into homes that don't have a dedicated hot return line. A pump connects to the outlet of the heater, and a thermally controlled valve is placed at each fixture in the home. The valves are connected between the hot and cold water lines. When each valve is cold water can flow from the hot line to the cold, and does so because the pump at the water heater outlet is providing pressure. When heated water reaches the valve, the valve closes. This keeps heated water near all the fixtures in the home with just one pump. However, like the Laing Autocirc, it doesn't really deliver hot water, just luke warm, and it replaces the cold water with tepid. The system is not suitable for use with a tankless heater.

Metlund and Chilipepper make "demand" hot water systems. Demand hot water systems are residential hot water circulating systems designed to work without a dedicated return, and are suitable for retrofit to existing homes. They also use the cold water piping for a return line. The demand pumps, like the Laing pump, are placed under a fixture where they connect the hot and cold lines. When the pump is activated by the user pushing a button, it pumps water out of the hot water pipe and into the cold water pipe, and shuts off when the hot water reaches the pump. Demand system pumps are more powerful than the other types of systems to move the water quickly.

The demand system has several advantages over the traditional system, and saves the same amount of water. One large advantage is the reduction in energy usage. Since the demand system only runs for a few seconds whenever someone demands hot water, it uses very little energy for pumping...typically less than .00 a year. It stops running when hot water reaches the fixture, and so it doesn't use any more heat energy than what you would normally use without a circulating system. Another advantage is the much smaller installation cost. It's easy and economical to retrofit to any house.

Demand systems have more powerful pumps than the other systems and so the Chilipepper pump and at least one of the larger Metlund pumps will work with tankless water heaters. Most of the circulating pumps won't pump enough water to activate the tankless heaters.


Hot Flash! Instant Hot Water Systems Explained and 5 Brands Compared

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

Instant Hot Water - Cheap and Easy

!±8± Instant Hot Water - Cheap and Easy

Instant hot water has a lot to be said for it. Not having to stand around waiting is one. Saving tons of water is another. Instant hot water can save you time water and energy, and along with those savings are other less tangible benefits. Reduced green house gasses are released into the atmosphere when you use less water since it requires energy to pump and process water before it gets to your home, and then again as sewage. If you have a septic system it can extend the life of your system. If you are on a well, your pump won't have to run as much.

There are a variety of systems on the market today that are designed to get you faster hot water. There are different views on just what "instant hot water" is. Some people say that you have to be able to get hot water within a second or two after turning on a tap. With most of these systems there is definitely a waiting period, which usually occurs before you turn on the tap, so not all people view all of these systems as producing "instant hot water".

For our purposes we shall define "instant hot water" as that which arrives within a few seconds of turning on the tap even if you had to wait before turning on the tap.

One way to have instant hot water is to circulate the water in a big loop from the outlet of the water heater, past each fixture, and on back to the inlet of the water heater. In my opinion this is the only way to really have "instant" heated water. You walk up to the tap and turn it on, and within a second or two it's there.

At first this sounds like a great idea, but after closer scrutiny it becomes obvious that this system is not so great after all. It is an energy hog! What you end up with is a giant heat radiating system that keeps the water heater working harder and more often to keep this big piping radiator hot. Even if you insulate the heck out of the pipes, the surface area to volume ratio insures that you will consume a huge amount of energy. Energy to heat water is much more expensive than the water that is being heated.

These continuously circulating systems also suffer from breakdowns due to the fact that heated water tends to form sediment even while being circulated. This sediment gets deposited on the surfaces of the pump parts and pipes forming clogging deposits which cause breakdowns.

Continuous circulating systems won't work with tankless water heaters. This is unfortunate, since tankless water heaters take longer to get the heated water than normal plumbing systems. More wasted water is the result.

Grundfos and Taco are two manufacturers of continuous circulating pumps and systems.

An alternative to the continuous circulating systems are the temperature controlled circulating systems that use the cold water piping as the return line back to the water heater. Like the previously discussed system, the hot water gets circulated in a big loop from the water heater, past the fixtures, and back to the water heater. The pump is usually located at the fixture furthest from the water heater, and the inlet connects to the hot pipe and the outlet connects to the cold water pipe With some systems the pump can be located at the heater, and just a valve at the fixture.

Since you obviously don't want your cold water piping full of heated water, the pump has a temperature sensing circuit, and the circuit shuts the pump off when the water gets up to about 95 degrees at the pump. The pump turns back on when the water temperature cools down to about 85 degrees. This means that when you turn on the tap you don't have to wait as long for the hot water to reach you since the pipes aren't as cold and won't suck the heat out as much as cold pipes would and so you get hot water more quickly. It certainly isn't instant though.

These "luke warm" systems as I call them also waste a whole lot of energy since they keep the pipes full of partially heated water. They don't use as much energy as the standard circulating systems, but they still use much more energy than a normal plumbing system uses.

Again, as with the previous types of systems the luke warm systems will not work with a tankless water heater. They pump water much too slowly to activate the tankless water heater's flow switch, and so they would just circulate cold water around and around.

Manufacturer's of the luke warm systems include RedyTemp, Laing, Grundfos and Watts.

The good news is there is a type of system that gets you fast hot water, doesn't run water down the drain, doesn't use more energy, and even works with tankless water heaters. In addition it is inexpensive and easy to install. The type of system I am talking about is a "demand system". When you "demand" heated water, by pressing a button, the pump comes on and pumps the heated water to your fixture rapidly. As with the luke warm systems, the pump is located at the furthest fixture from the heater, and connects to the hot and cold lines.

Instead of being temperature controlled though, the pump only turns on when you turn it on. It has a temperature sensor built in, and when hot water reaches the fixture the pumps shuts off. At that point you have instant hot water when you turn on the tap. Since the heated water was not circulated, you did not use any more heat energy than if you had a normal plumbing system. Since the pump only runs for a few seconds each time, it only uses a dollar or two per year in electricity costs. If you have a system with a powerful pump like the Chilipepper CP6000 pump, you can get your water much faster than normal. The CP6000 pumps up to 3 gallons per minute, and many fixtures limit flow rates to less than one gallon per minute. So you can get your heated water up to three times as fast. And what you get is hot water, not luke warm water.

The demand type systems do not seem to have any drawbacks. They get you your hot water faster, saving you time. They don't use more energy than a standard system. They are inexpensive, or at least some of them are. And some of them work with tankless water heaters as well. As long as the pump is strong enough to turn on the heater, it will work.

The Chilipepper pump has the strongest pump on the market and will turn on any tankless water heater. Metlund makes several models, and not all will work with a tankless water heater so if you have a tankless water heater check with the manufacturer to make sure it will work with your model of heater.

Demand systems are typically inexpensive, the least expensive being the Chilipepper at about 0.00, and Metlund with several models under 0.00. Taco also manufactures a demand system very similar to the Metlund D'mand system. Often you can install them without even turning off the hot water to the house, just turn off the angle stops under the sink where you are installing it. You will need a 110 volt outlet to plug the pump into.

If you decide you are interested in a demand type system check with you local water company, as several water companies around the country offer their customers rebates of up to 0.00 for the installation of such a system to conserve water. So be green, help out the environment, and stop waiting for hot water.


Instant Hot Water - Cheap and Easy

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Friday, November 4, 2011

What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 2

!±8± What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 2

Here are the proper steps to designing an efficient and cost effective heating system:

1. Through in depth discussions with the GC and building owner, determine exactly what the building owner expects from the new heating system - what type of system will it be? There are numerous options for system types and the type of fuel it will utilize. What level of efficiency will the system be capable of? What level of equipment quality is expected? How many heating zones are desired? How will potable water will be heated - through the boiler and indirect-fired water heater, or a separate heating source like a direct-fired water heater - gas, electric, oil, or solar? In the case of an "indirect" water heater, I will be sure to add the requisite BTUs per hour for the domestic hot water as needed. Basically, all relevant information will need to be conveyed with person-to-person discussions, and the HVAC subcontractor should be able to drive the discussions to the point that all questions will be satisfactorily be answered so he can proceed to the next step.

2. The HVAC sub needs to obtain a complete set of working construction drawings that include all floor plans, elevations drawings, window, door and insulation schedules, and geographical orientation.

3. The HVAC designer will then interpret the drawings and harvest all of the necessary data from it to be used in the heat loss calculation software. The software will tell him how many BTUs/hour the building will require on the coldest day and will break the total down by individual room "loads".

4. The designer will then select the proper equipment based on fuel type, "net" heating output capacity (in BTUs/hour) and how the heating appliance will be vented - through a chimney, sidewall-vented or power-vented out the side of the building or direct-vented through the roof. He will also account for quality and efficiency rating.

5. Then the heat distribution aspect of the design will be worked through. For FHW, he will determine pipe sizing and type, circulator (the 'pump' that moves hot water from the boiler to the terminal units) performance characteristics, flow control devices and terminal unit type(s) and sizes.

6. The designer will then choose the control systems based on number of zones, energy-savings and safety and code requirements.

7. The fuel storage type and capacity will be selected.

8. A total cost estimate will be generated and a proposal listing all of the major components will be drafted and submitted.

This is a basic list of steps. In reality, there are so many details to creating a competent design and estimate that delineating all of them goes beyond the scope of this article. The most important point is that the heat loss calculation must be competently performed before any other design step can be taken. The other important thing is that the proper equipment be selected that answers to the heat loss calculation. If the equipment heating capacity is guessed at, then the system will most likely be over-sized...for the life of the system. Next is as important - the efficiency of the equipment is crucial to future fuel consumption and a true professional HVAC system designer will promote the highest efficiency available. Spending a few hundred dollars initially is always more advantageous financially than forever burning more fuel due to poor efficiency. Consider higher efficiency equipment as an investment in future fuel savings.

If any of the steps outlined above are skipped, then greater operating and service costs will result. Some HVAC subs do not design the systems they install, their equipment/parts suppliers do the calculations for him and he automatically believes they did the calculations right. Often a lot of rounding up gets done in the HVAC design world, as nobody wants to be left holding the bag if too small a system is installed, then doesn't sufficiently heat the house on the coldest days of the year. And that rounding can account for 25% of the system capacity - it will be too over-sized and cost the building owner more money to heat.

I can't express enough how many HVAC systems are incorrectly sized and designed. I see them every week I am out in the field. It is more normal for systems to be designed incorrectly than to be designed correctly. Yes, I repeat: most heating systems are designed incorrectly and burn too much fuel!

While plumbers and HVAC companies are often incompetently designing and installing heating systems, fuel companies are more often intentionally designing systems to burn the greatest amount of fuel their systems can get away with. Again, not all fuel companies are doing this, only the unethical ones are. Still, there is a great amount of ignorance in heating system design. HVAC sales engineers (like myself - see my resume at my website) are few and far between. Companies will pay great money to acquire a competent sales engineer. Conversely, HVAC companies aren't looking for them because they know it is a futile search.

Residential building owners are the most taken advantage of by companies through deliberate and unintended shoddy heating system design, installation and service. This is true because homeowners do not have the desire to learn about their heating system, nor the time to get over the learning curve. Therefore, they do not know the right questions to ask of a GC, HVAC or fuel company. They often are meticulous in scheduling the annual cleaning/inspection of their heating system, yet lack the important knowledge to determine if the cleaning was done right. They will never know if the system was designed and installed right and if the technicians who have worked on it through the years knew what they were doing. Any incompetence along the lifespan of the system, from design to the last service call before the system is replaced, will cost the homeowner more money. Mostly, homeowners are oblivious to the extent they are being ripped off!

Here's a rip-off scenario of a different kind. People think they have to spend ,000 to save a grand a year in fuel cost! They are lead to believe this routinely by energy auditing "professionals". In a blog post to come I will explain how "energy auditing" firms are duping their clients into believing they need some kind of sophisticated analysis to determine how their client can save money on fuel, and that they need high tech HVAC equipment to save money on energy costs. This is a huge scam, considering the energy auditor will charge tens of thousands of dollars to evaluate their building before any energy efficiency measures are carried out. They fly under the flag of the monetary incentives for the building owner provided for in the The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 - The "Economic Stimulus Package".

Recently, I was contacted (through a referring party who worked for the New Hampshire Public Utilities Commission) by a woman who had been a policymaker with the same state agency for 20 years. She inquired about converting 3 heating systems in 2 apartment buildings to higher efficiency gas-fired boilers, so she could do her part in reducing her carbon footprint and qualify for benefits under the U.S. "Stimulus Package". I told her the ramifications of changing her chimney-vented boilers to direct-vented types would be a costly endeavor, approaching ,000 apiece. I also told her that I could make her cast iron mid-efficiency FHW boilers burn as much as 15-30% less gas. Of course, she was all ears. She hired me for a couple of grand to install temperature modulation controls on the 3 boilers and make a few other modifications. The end result means she will spend about the same on fuel as the new technology high efficiency boilers would require, and she got these modifications for about ,000 less!

Commercial building owners are generally more required by job description to know important things like, the benefits of heat loss calculations, proper equipment output capacity and the steps required of technicians doing maintenance. This is not to say that commercial building owners are not somewhat in the dark, too. Not all commercial buildings are managed by people who are wise to HVAC technologies and the tricks-of-the-trade, shall we say. Nevertheless, commercial systems naturally consume greater amounts of fuel - the space to be heated is bigger than homes - and when they burn inefficiently the wasted fuel is also greater than that wasted in residential applications. Therefore, it is more imperative for commercial building owners to make sure they are getting the correct answers from their HVAC professionals.

Like the fox that guards the hen house, your fuel company is not unlike the fox. The more fuel your heating system uses, the more money you pay your fuel supplier. It's logical then to believe that the greatest amount of fuel they can sell you is what they endeavor to sell you. Like the fox scheming to eat the hens, fuel companies can and do design and service heating systems in ways that demand the burner burns more fuel than is otherwise necessary to heat your building. All they have to do is skip the heat loss calculation and pick an inefficient, oversized American-made boiler and sell it to you. You trust them and are confident that the new boiler will heat your house reliably. You hope you will save money on fuel, but at least it won't break down soon. Unfortunately, the fuel company salesman didn't tell you the new boiler is a single-pass flue design and has a gross stack temperature of 450 degrees. He also didn't tell you that you could have bought a European boiler with a triple-pass heat exchanger and resulting 300 degree gross stack temperature. He also didn't offer to sell you a temperature modulation control and an indirect-fired water heater. Instead, you got a boiler with a "tankless" coil (for domestic hot water) that requires the boiler maintain constant temperature 24/7 all year long. All the while, heat constantly escapes up the chimney into the atmosphere.

What if you are considering the purchase of a building? You walk-through the building and make note of as much detail as you are able to in a limited number of walk-throughs. You calculate the cost of things like paint, landscaping, obvious mechanical systems repairs and the like, but you most likely know very little about heating technology, but do you know how fuel efficient, or inefficient the heating system is? You can ask what the past fuel costs have been, but without knowing what the infiltration rate of the building is and how many BTUs are required to heat the building on the coldest day of the year, then you will not be able to make any educated conclusions about the heating system's efficiency and effectiveness. Therefore, you will not be able to accurately predict the cost to heat the building. If you buy the building you will find out in the first year what the heating system consumes in fuel, assuming the weather is typical winter weather.

Here are the mechanical reasons behind high fuel and electricity cost:
No one did a heat loss calculation before the heating system was installed and they guessed at the BTU capacity of the heating appliance (boiler or furnace) and/or the radiation (baseboard or duct and diffusers sizes) capacity was undersized. A boiler/furnace that is too big, as discussed, will short cycle and consume too much fuel like city driving. A boiler or furnace that is too small will not adequately heat the building, the conditioned space will not reach the desired temperature so the thermostat will never be satisfied and the boiler/furnace will never shut off - and burn too much fuel. The boiler or furnace was installed incorrectly. The supply and return piping was the wrong diameter and/or the ducts and/or diffusers were the incorrect size. The number of installed zones (each zone has a thermostat, so count tally them up and that's the number of zones in your system) was either too many or, less likely to cause excessive fuel consumption, too few. The installed zone(s) had too much radiation capacity connected to it/them. Too much baseboard radiation on a forced hot water zone will cause a heat imbalance in the building and hot and cold spots will ensue. The solution is to split the zone into more "loops". Ducts or pipes were not insulated in unconditioned spaces. You really don't want to inadvertently heat basements, attics, crawl spaces and the like, therefore, the ducts or pipes need to be insulated. Ducts also need to be sealed to prevent air escape. The installer did not set up the combustion process to achieve the carbon dioxide, oxygen, smoke, gross stack temperature and draft levels that the manufacturer intended. Too high a stack temperature (too much negative draft in the smoke pipe) means too much heat is escaping up the chimney. Too low a CO2 percentage of flue gas means the fuel isn't being completely combusted (at least as much as is possible with the equipment). Too much smoke in a smoke test means the boiler or furnace will "soot up" quickly. An 1/8" of soot is equivalent to an inch of fiberglass insulation. You don't want insulation on the heat exchanger, otherwise the heat generated by combustion will not transfer into the heating medium - air or water - and the heat will go up the chimney in excessive stack temperature. In the case of oil burners and power gas burners, if the burner output capacity in BTUs was not matched to the boiler/furnace "input capacity" then the burner will either short cycle (burner output too great), or the burner will never shut off (burner output too little). The installing contractor selected a boiler with a temperature limit control that maintains temperature in the boiler that is too great for the application. The installer incorrectly set the temperature limits in the aquastat (boiler) or fan and limit control (furnace). Too much fuel and electricity will be consumed as a result. The wrong flow capacity circulators were selected and installed in the forced hot water system. Not enough heat is transferred to the space (the burner will short cycle) or electric consumption will be too great. The burner - gas or oil - metering device (orifices with gas; nozzle with oil) was incorrectly selected, which usually means the wrong boiler/furnace or burner was incorrectly selected and installed. Almost always, the manufacturer of the heating equipment charges their engineering department with the task of Research and Development to determine what nozzle of orifice(s) are correct and set up the burners to include the correct ones with their burner/boiler or furnace. Nevertheless, incompetence can get in the way and that is often messed up in the field. The installer did not set the correct metering rate for the requisite gas input rate for the burner. This means that he did not adjust the "manifold pressure" for the gas after the gas valve on the gas burner. With today's high efficiency, multi-stage firing burners, this is a very technical set up feature that absolutely must be done. In certain cases, a gas explosion can result if the manifold pressure in each firing stage is not set correctly. This must always be done in the field after complete system installation. The installer did not follow the manufacturer's installation and/or service instructions to the letter. Too much fuel or electricity will be consumed, too much or too little heat will be generated, and/or a safety issue will result. Water through pipes and/or air through ducts was not properly balanced, causing heating imbalance in the conditioned space and excessive electrical consumption by circulators and blowers.The bottom line is if the designer did not properly design the system, then:
Too much electricity and/or fuel will be consumed. The system will most likely never work correctly. The system can become a danger to people and property. Consequential damage costs can result. Civil litigation costs can be expected. The installed cost of the system will not be accurately represented. The environment will suffer. The building owner will pay with his money, time and frustration level.The bottom line is if the installer did not properly install the system, then:
Too much electricity and/or fuel will be consumed. The system will most likely never work correctly. The system can become a danger to people and property. Consequential damage costs can result. Civil litigation costs can be expected. The installed cost of the system will not be accurately represented. The environment will suffer. The building owner will pay with his money, time and frustration level.The bottom line is if the service technician did not properly service the system, then:
Too much electricity and/or fuel will be consumed. The system will not work correctly until a technician who knows what he is doing fixes the problem(s). The system can become a danger to people and property. Consequential damage costs can result. Civil litigation costs can be expected. The service cost of the system will not be accurately represented and will always end up costing more. The environment will suffer. The building owner will pay with his money, time and frustration level.The bottom, bottom line is any of the above bottom lines can be combined and the result will be a veritable nightmare for the building owner. I see the outcome on a regular basis and this is why people hire me - to fix these screw-ups. At least 90% of my work is generated from the screw-ups of other HVAC designers, installers and service technicians. This is not to say that we don't all make mistakes. We do, I do. Some who make mistakes offer no solutions or apologies for their mistakes. I do.

So what can you do when you suspect that someone has made mistakes with the design, installation or service of your heating system, or any HVACR system in general? Contact me. This is why I offer design, installation, service, consulting and expert witness services in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, Ventilation, Refrigeration, Humidity Control, Exhaust and other aspects of the "HVAC" realm. There's a huge market for it.

Here's what you need to do to prevent the mistakes from being made in the first place:
Research your prospective HVAC installing contractor's background - ask for references, his training history, employment history, his website, his specialization(s), if any. Ask your installing contractor, or general contractor, who is responsible for the design of your system. If they say their parts supplier, tell them you are not interested. You must hire an installer who does his own designs. That way, if things go wrong he is solely responsible for the system shortcomings. In the worst case scenario, you do not want to have to sue multiple companies/individuals, or your legal bills will preclude your success. Make sure you get a copy of the heat loss calculations...in their entirety! If they can't offer you a copy (this means they have not done the calculations in Wrightsoft, Elite, or an equipment manufacturer's proprietary software), then fire them before you hire them! Ask your installing contractor to see his portfolio of past installations and the names and contact information of his customers with those systems. If he can't provide that information, then move on to the next installer who can. Ensure that you speak directly with the installing contractor. If your general contractor/builder does not allow this...fire him before you hire him! When you speak directly with the prospective installing HVAC contractor, make sure you discuss the type of fuel you intend to burn; the type of venting method you will be using (masonry chimney, high temperature metal chimney; sidewall/direct-vent, or "ventless") and the efficiency range (mid-efficiency or high-efficiency) of the equipment that you desire. Also, do some research on heating system types, product types, brand names, furnace and boiler material construction types (cast iron, steel or cast aluminum) and the approximate costs for each versus what your return on investment (ROI) will be for each. Pick your installing contractor's brain for his reasons for selecting the types and brands of the equipment and materials who chooses to install. If his reasons don't sound quite right, then there is a red flag. Get other installer's opinions and recommendations and go with your gut feeling. Tell your general contractor/builder that you want several alternate HVAC installer quotes...then go with your gut feeling on which one to select for your project. Educate yourself as much as you can with all that you can stand to know about heating systems. "An Educated Consumer is Our Best Customer!" You've heard that slogan before. Be that educated consumer. Never buy a system because it was the low bid! You virtually always get what you pay for. "Pay Now or Pay Later!" You've heard those cliché's as well. Let me design your heating/HVACR system(s). Then you will know you covered all the important bases. I will provide you with a heat loss analysis, Bill Of Materials (estimate for every single part that your system(s) will be comprised of, down to the last screw and wire nut), Proposal with all the essential information and legalese, in an understandable presentation, and any and all product specifications that comprise your system. If you don't hire me for your designs, estimates or proposals, then let me review those of your installing contractor so I can pinpoint any shortcomings. If you live in my area of business, then consider me for the system installation and service. If you hire someone else, then let me inspect his work...before you make the final payment to him! That way you will have leverage if he did something that is wrong and the system won't perform as intended. He will come back to fix a problem if he knows he will get paid when the problem is fixed. Make sure that the installed system is inspected by the local Municipal mechanical inspector and/or the Fire Chief. But don't rely too heavily on the "rubber stamp of approval" from the inspector, as a good majority of inspectors have no idea what they are even looking at. Check with your state's Public Utilities Commission to see if they prescribe and enforce energy efficiency measures and codes. You will be surprised how many installers do not know of or follow these prescribed codes and measures, or if they even exist.I could tell you volumes more about HVAC systems efficiency and safety, but that will have to be seen in past and future Blog postings. In the meantime, good luck and be educated!


What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 2

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